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Hi Sascha,
I wonder, what to do with the chord-settings? They are usely wide and the
number always limited to at the most 5 or 6 notes (you'll never play
6string-chords all the time specially not with more complex settings). Then
I haveto wonder if it isn't easier just to use the matrix?
Bob
bhelsloot@...
BOB'S MUSIC
->I'm using a MIDI guitar at home since several years and I must say that
I
>really love it at times, especially since I'm the last person you would
call
>a useable keyboard player... (my apologies to my piano teacher at the
>university for having been such a lousy student).
>
>Anyways, I have the (kinda obligue) Roland GK2a pickup mounted to a bit
>older Ibanez RG series (a "Saber" actually, who cares) guitar
and a (pretty
>cheap) Roland GI-10 interface.
>I do mention the guitar here because this seems to be the weakest point
of
>the whole MIDI guitar story - proper adjustment is a MUST, otherwise
most
>likely you will never be happy with the thing at all.
>Having said that, the Ibanez has a Floyd Rose vibrato system - it's
radius
>fits the radius of the GK2 pickup "so-so-ish", meaning that
the radius of
>the trem is wider than the radius of the pickup (originally they
apparently
>were designed to fit on a strat which has a much smaller fretboard
radius
>than most modern guitars and the GK2 doesn't offer individual adjustment
of
>it's pole pieces).
>With a combination like that it's up to you whether you want the top or
low
>strings to track a bit better or if you would go for some sort of
compromise
>(which is what I do).
>The best solution I have tried so far was one Godin guitar with the
>hexaphonic pickup build straight into the bridge (these days I think you
can
>even get replacement bridges for quite some guitar models containing 6
>individual piezos - nice because you usually can even use them for a
kinda
>acoustic D.I. sound while at the same time midifying your guitar).
>Maybe this is the reason why some people still like those kinda old-ish
>Casio guitars - you just don't have to care about pickup adjustment.
>
>The next important thing is the converter. Older converters used to need
>more string amplitudes to calculate a note while with modern converters
this
>has been reduced to 3 (?) half-amplitudes (I really don't know exactly,
but
>this has been improved significantly during the last years), so, if you
>decide to go for a MIDI guitar you better don't get yourself a too old
one.
>A while ago I tried one converter of a german company called Axxon,
>apparently it works pretty well, plus the thing is kinda
"intelligent",
>meaning that you can train it to fit your playing style a bit better
(not
>sure how good that feature works). Plus it's got quite some neat
features
>such as open tunings, fretboard split points (you can devide the
fretboard
>into ranges triggering individual MIDI channels horizontally) and stuff
like
>that.
>
>Finally, THE most important point is your playing technique!
>Chord strumming for example doesn't work at all (at least it never did
for
>me).
>Apart from single lines I allways play finger technique (or pick and
fingers
>for that matter) when using the MIDI guitar. A bit of nail helps as well
to
>get more clarity.
>Also you will have to take care about finger vibrato, slurs and slides
and
>even bendings are a very sensitive thing to do via MIDI (if I just play
>chords and lines that don't need any bending I usually switch off the
pitch
>bend option of the GI-10).
>Well, even with the most careful playing you will most likely run into
some
>"rest notes" but it's just easy to build yourself a
transformer that deletes
>all notes shorter than XYZ (you gotta experiment a bit with this,
depends a
>lot on your technique) and/or with a lower velocity than X (again,
>experiment) (Just the old Cubase "delete short notes"
function).
>
>Then there's some tiny tricks:
>
>- It surely helps to use heavier strings (I use 0.011 - 0.054, plain
>G-string for the MIDI one).
>
>-For basses it's very helpful NOT to play them on the bottom strings but
>transpose your instrument down to two octaves in Logic (or even directly
>inside the converter) and play in higher registers => you will have a
>noticable tighter feeling as higher notes are converted faster due to
faster
>string amplitudes. Needs a while to get used to it for basses but it's
worth
>the effort.
>
>- Try to get used to the sustain pedal while playing chords. If you just
>expect them to be sustained as long as your guitar sustains you will
>sometimes run into surprises... a sustain pedal helps getting chord
tones of
>the same length. Also this is nice if you change chords as you have
quite
>some more time to do so => risks of glitches are reduced.
>
>Finally, the best triggering guitar I ever played again was some Godin,
a
>nylon model.
>Apparently it produced way less glitches and unwanted notes than most
>electric models. But well, this wasn't exactly cheap...
>
>So far for now,
>Sascha
>
>
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