Hi, I know most people don't care about heavy metal anymore...but i do!!! I was wondering if anyone on this list has mixed any speed metal bands. I'm looking for some tips on how to keep definition in the drums when they're played at 170 or 180 bpms. I'm especially having trouble keeping my kicks from sounding muddy. How do you maintain bass response AND definition in a kick drum when it's played so fast? Many professionally recorded speed metal albums do this so well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance, Jon Zaremba http://www.jonzaremba.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 1/2/04

"Save the Universe" wrote: > I'm especially having trouble keeping my kicks from sounding muddy. > First of all, if the drummer doesn't play well, the kit isn't tuned well, and the room isn't right for tracking drums, you are quite possibly, to use a time honoured phrase, "polishing a turd". If all these very important factors are taken care of, look at how you mike the drums. For the kick, you need to pay special attention to getting plenty of attack for the sound you are going for. As well as miking in front of, or inside the drum, try pointing a mike down at the beater, behind the drum. Pointing it down will help reject some of the sound from the snare, HH and rest of kit, and this should help capture more of the attack of the beater striking the head. Try an SM 57 for this. The type of beater is important too - wood striking one of those "click pads" will give you lots more attack. In front of the drum - long list - AKG 112 or even C 414, Sennheiser 421, E 602. Shure Beta 52, they have a PZM that works well here. Electro voice RE 20, Audio Technica 4050, Neumann TLM 103, 170, and many many more ... You will very likely have a phasing issue using mikes in front of and behind the drum, something to watch out for. I like to have some mikes in the room - I tend to start with an MS pair 10 - 15 feet out in front of the drums, preferably a nice pair of large diaphragm condensers - but move the mikes around, till you find what sounds best. In many cases, this can help layer the various multi tracked instruments better than adding artificial 'verb later - IF the room is up to it! You may want to time correct these tracks later. When mixing, be careful when boosting low frequencies. While it is common practice to boost around 62 Hz, watch out for the 200-500 Hz area, which can usually take a cut. Of course, you will probably be adding some highs to accentuate the attack - esp. if you don't use that mike for the beater. Don't take any of this as gospel though - let your ears decide. While it is very convenient to use a DAW where you can see all the settings displayed as nice EQ curves, it can be misleading. Don't look at the EQ - hear it ;-). > How do you maintain bass response AND definition in a kick drum > when it's played so fast? Many professionally recorded speed metal > albums do this so well. Listen to them again - I think you might find that there isn't that much deep bass in the kick drum sound - it slows everything down, and muddies up the bottom end ... HTH kind regards Mark Cahill

On 23 Jan 2004, at 03:59, Save the Universe wrote: > Hi, > > I know most people don't care about heavy metal anymore...but i do!!! > > I was wondering if anyone on this list has mixed any speed metal bands. > > I'm looking for some tips on how to keep definition in the drums when > they're played at 170 or 180 bpms. I'm especially having trouble > keeping my > kicks from sounding muddy. > > How do you maintain bass response AND definition in a kick drum when > it's > played so fast? Many professionally recorded speed metal albums do > this so > well. > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in Advance, > Jon Zaremba > http://www.jonzaremba.com > --- Hi, I'd like to add here that many heavy metal drummers glue a large (silver dollar? Euros are too small...) coin or something similar to their click pad on the skin of the kick drum for extra attack. Cheers, Recky ________________________________________________________ Fortéfied Productions tel: +49-228-34 62 23 mob: +49-173-51 577 57 recky@...

Also, many use drum triggers on the kick (and snare) and then just pick the best sounding kick or snare from your drum machine/drum brain for that song and mix it with the mic'd signal. Dana HorrorMetal.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "recky reck" <recky@...> To: <logic-ot@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 3:34 AM Subject: Re: [L-OT] Heavy Metal Drum Mixing On 23 Jan 2004, at 03:59, Save the Universe wrote: > Hi, > > I know most people don't care about heavy metal anymore...but i do!!! > > I was wondering if anyone on this list has mixed any speed metal bands. > > I'm looking for some tips on how to keep definition in the drums when > they're played at 170 or 180 bpms. I'm especially having trouble > keeping my > kicks from sounding muddy. > > How do you maintain bass response AND definition in a kick drum when > it's > played so fast? Many professionally recorded speed metal albums do > this so > well. > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in Advance, > Jon Zaremba > http://www.jonzaremba.com > --- Hi, I'd like to add here that many heavy metal drummers glue a large (silver dollar? Euros are too small...) coin or something similar to their click pad on the skin of the kick drum for extra attack. Cheers, Recky ________________________________________________________ Fortéfied Productions tel: +49-228-34 62 23 mob: +49-173-51 577 57 recky@...

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Here is the problem. On Monday I acquired Panther for an upgrade. Figured I'd get this out of the way then go from Logic 5.5.1 to Logic Pro when it is released. Since I am a "switcher" (about 1 year ago) I wasn't expecting what happened - which was Panther kepts freezing around 13% when writing System Base 1 files. I went to the Apple store (Newport Beach) and we started brainstorming. We took out memory cards (I've got 2 gigs total). Same thing. we tried a different Panther disk (same thing /problem). we pulled out the Delta 1010 card (same thing /problem). Since I bought my machine through my favorite music store - who got it from mac mall - I've come to learn that my memory cards and SCSI hard drives are not "apple made" and therefore my warranty does not apply (from Mac). The techs called me tonight and said "we put in an IDE hard drive and got Panther installed no problem. We think your SCSI drive or controller is the issue (that is what I suspected after all my other test)". We'll run some 12 hour hardware test and call you in the morning and let you know the next step. Now my question for the group - do any of you have SCSI hard drives and cards in your machine and did you exeperience any trouble upgrading to Panther? I don't want to "clean install" because it will take another week of getting Logic and the Delta 1010 and Core Midi/Audio working. Any advise or "war stories" appreciated. Post here if it is helpful to the group or privately at Antcinq@.... Thanks

"antcinq" <AntCinq@a...> wrote: > Any advise or "war stories" appreciated. Post here if it is helpful > to the group or privately at Antcinq@a... Don't know about the SCSI compatibility and stuff, etc., etc.... But, I do know that it is EXTREMELY important to use the DISK UTILITY on the Panther Disc #1 BEFORE upgrading. (Once you start up from the CD, immediately select the DISK UTILITY from the menu above). Make sure that you run the REPAIR DISK and REPAIR PERMISSIONS several times until you get no errors at all (on the physical hard drive volume, as well as the partitions that you have (even if only the main one)).... Then upgrade choose the "Archive and Install" option (since you don't want to "Erase and Install") and choose to preserve your user and network settings, etc.... You might not even have to reinstall Logic this way at all.... Also, try downloading this $5 PDF file from this site: http://www.tidbits.com/ takecontrol/ "Take Control of Upgrading to Panther" has some great advice, which helped me have a 100% "event-free" upgrade just last week!!! ;-) Good luck man! Chris M.

I was naive and hope others heed your caution. Being a long time PC user, I would dread and "put off" loading anything on my PC. My experience with the Mac has been stellar and I presumed it would continue to be so. I even bought my mother an iMac for the holiday because I was so tired of fixing her PC. I didn't do any research prior to upgrading and if others are listening, you are correct about your advise. Thanks. The Tech people called me today and told me that they got Panther on my machine after removing my SCSI drive and installing an IDE drive. At least it is not my memory or motherboard....hopefully they'll finish tomorrow and I can get back to making music on Sunday. Thanks again... Tony * * * * * * > But, I do know that it is EXTREMELY important to use the DISK UTILITY on the Panther > Disc #1 BEFORE upgrading. (Once you start up from the CD, immediately select the > DISK UTILITY from the menu above). > > Make sure that you run the REPAIR DISK and REPAIR PERMISSIONS several times until > you get no errors at all (on the physical hard drive volume, as well as the partitions > that you have (even if only the main one)).... > > Then upgrade choose the "Archive and Install" option (since you don't want to "Erase > and Install") and choose to preserve your user and network settings, etc.... > > You might not even have to reinstall Logic this way at all.... > > Also, try downloading this $5 PDF file from this site: http://www.tidbits.com/ > takecontrol/ > > "Take Control of Upgrading to Panther" has some great advice, which helped me have > a 100% "event-free" upgrade just last week!!! ;-) > > Good luck man! > > Chris M.

> ** Original Message follows... > From: "Adam Pendse" <adampendse@...> > Subject: [OT] Networking OSX to WinXP > > Hi, > > i know this was mentioned a while back (Per?), but i cant remember the > thread. Does anyone have the lowdown on this - i'm getting mixed > results at the moment, but think its something not set correctly on OSX. > Please email privately if this too off-topic, thanks, > I haven't had much luck with this either. I use a PC to run Acid and FruityLoops. What I've had to do is create a new user in OS X, allow that user to log on from Windows, switch to my Windows computer and place the files I need to transfer into the users' or public folder in OS X. I have never been sucessful to accessing the files on the PC from OS X. I strongly suspect that the problem is from the PC end of things though... There are several documents on Apple's site about OS X - XP networking. Haven't helped though. Mars

On 04-01-24 19.05, "mars@..." <mars@...> wrote: > I have never been > sucessful to accessing the files on the PC from OS X. I strongly suspect that > the problem is from the PC end of things though... For me it was much simpler to share a Win XP folder for the OSX machine then the other way around. So I use the Mac to move files around the network. Since I installed Panther, that is. On Jaguar the Mac was just banned by the PC's ;-) -- Best wishes Per Boysen www.boysen.se www.looproom.com

"mars@t..." <mars@t...> wrote: > > > I have never been > > sucessful to accessing the files on the PC from OS X. I strongly suspect > > that the problem is from the PC end of things though... > Per Boysen <per@b...> wrote: > For me it was much simpler to share a Win XP folder for the OSX machine then > the other way around. So I use the Mac to move files around the network. > Since I installed Panther, that is. On Jaguar the Mac was just banned by the > PC's ;-) Whichever way you can get it to work. :) I've found that enabling windows sharing on my mac (SysPrefs>Sharing) and then connecting to it from an XP machine with the IP address to be fairly painless. Map a network drive in an XP explorer window and enter your Mac's IP address and your username like this: 10.0.0.5/orbitborn and then type your password. That'll give you access to your home directory on the mac. Or you could setup a linux server and use samba / windows sharing between the two... Or you could use smbclient in the terminal on your mac... (I have too many computers)

On Jan 25, 2004, at 5:57 PM, methinked@... wrote: > Regardless what OS or platform one uses, I think it is a general rule > of thumb you are asking for trouble if you don't leave at least 10% of > your hard drive space free. If you only have 700 megs free to begin > with, you are way past that point unless you are using a partitioning > scheme where your OS drive is less than 7 gigs...but then, why would > you do that? 7 gigs is not much for a modern OS and applications. I love my powerbook and osx, I use it everyday for just about everything. However, I have to say that any modern os that requires you to maintain any amount of free space for something as basic as swap space is brain-dead. All the BSDs (save for osx) use separate partitions for swap. If you fill all that swap space, then the os starts to hurt, but it will not overwrite files on the root or any other partition. On top of that, I run a dozen production servers at work, all running modern bsd operating systems, and all of the static partitions have less than 500 mb free. Now, the /var and /home partitions are a different matter, but anything that doesn't change in size I've tuned to have a minimum of free space, as its simply not required. And Jesse this is not an attack on you, I just used your quote. I get frustrated by this at times and had to vent tonight :)

I finally picked up some new monitors, the Event TR-8XLs. I've got them connected to my A6|2m. The A62m manual states that it outputs at 1Vrms or ~+2.2dBu (page 20). The tr8s have input sensitivity knobs on the back that run from -20dB to "MAX". The event manual says that when the control is set to MAX, 0.25V RMS at the unbalanced in (which I'm using) "will produce full amplifier output." So how should I set the knob so that I don't overload the speakers? I've got a chart that shows 1 volt to fall somewhere between 2dBu and 3dBu (reference 0.775 volts) and .25 volts to be about -10dBu. Are these voltages the same as Vrms? Should I set the input sensitivity knob to -13dBu? When the A62m manual says that it outputs 1Vrms does that mean that when I've got the output volume in Audio MIDI Setup set to 0dB and am just under 0.0 on my output meter in Logic that I'm getting 1Vrms? Obviously I'm a little confused about all of this :) Is there a good book or magazine article that might help me out? Thanks... Wes

> ** Original Message follows... > From: "Adam Pendse" <adampendse@...> > Subject: [OT] Networking OSX to WinXP > > Hi, > > i know this was mentioned a while back (Per?), but i cant remember the > thread. Does anyone have the lowdown on this - i'm getting mixed > results at the moment, but think its something not set correctly on OSX. > Please email privately if this too off-topic, thanks, > Strangely enough, I finally got this working as advertised the other day. A client needed to transfer some PC files, so I stuck his drive in my PC, tried to connect - no luck. I went to the Mac, tried "connect to server" - which had failed repeatedly previously - and, wonder of wonders, it worked perfectly the 1st time. The shared folder appeared on my desktop and that was it. The only difference I could detect, was that this time, I had switched the PC on first. I usually do it the other way around. Also, the stuff was coming off the 2nd drive. I'll try it again when I get a chance. Mars

NO MORE MAIL PLEESE, THANX RAY litepipe <litepipe@...> wrote: "fauxstout" wrote: > i was going to recommend that too but i havent personally used one > except in 30th Street guitars for about an hour. I deal with 30th street too. I like them. I bought an Exotic Fx Robotalk from them. Cool analog random arpeggiator if anyone is interested. > it blew me away, but > at the time i was shopping for a stage amp and went with a Hughes and > Kettner triamp instead. i still want to go pick one up, once i get > tired of the various guitar-pres i have. ZVex makes the best stuff in > the world though, very very unique and quality products. and he emails > you back to ask him questions about it. The thing about the Nano is it gets the "real" sound. For years I was trying to get pedals that would give me that power tube saturation sound and was unhappy. I have a Blackface Twin, but I can't get it nearly loud enough to get that sound....It's such a loud amp. When I got the Nano I was just in awe....When you mike it up through a cab you would never know it's not a huge cranked amp. It easy to get a good sound out of it too. There are enough switches to give you the "right" options without getting lost in the sauce. Also the quality of this thing is great. It is great craftmanship. Zach is def. a cool guy. He's really into what he does and is very friendly. > his probe series of stuff is great, for those who havent seen them. he > combines the 'proximity sensor' EM coil thing-a-ma-bob from Theremins > into guitar pedals for very interesting effects. Def. very interesting....I think my next ZVex purchase will be the Fuzz Probe. Creative effects for sure!! --litepipe --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/logic-ot/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: logic-ot-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

NO MORE MAIL PLEESE, THANX RAY litepipe <litepipe@...> wrote: "fauxstout" wrote: > i was going to recommend that too but i havent personally used one > except in 30th Street guitars for about an hour. I deal with 30th street too. I like them. I bought an Exotic Fx Robotalk from them. Cool analog random arpeggiator if anyone is interested. > it blew me away, but > at the time i was shopping for a stage amp and went with a Hughes and > Kettner triamp instead. i still want to go pick one up, once i get > tired of the various guitar-pres i have. ZVex makes the best stuff in > the world though, very very unique and quality products. and he emails > you back to ask him questions about it. The thing about the Nano is it gets the "real" sound. For years I was trying to get pedals that would give me that power tube saturation sound and was unhappy. I have a Blackface Twin, but I can't get it nearly loud enough to get that sound....It's such a loud amp. When I got the Nano I was just in awe....When you mike it up through a cab you would never know it's not a huge cranked amp. It easy to get a good sound out of it too. There are enough switches to give you the "right" options without getting lost in the sauce. Also the quality of this thing is great. It is great craftmanship. Zach is def. a cool guy. He's really into what he does and is very friendly. > his probe series of stuff is great, for those who havent seen them. he > combines the 'proximity sensor' EM coil thing-a-ma-bob from Theremins > into guitar pedals for very interesting effects. Def. very interesting....I think my next ZVex purchase will be the Fuzz Probe. Creative effects for sure!! --litepipe --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/logic-ot/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: logic-ot-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!

Hi Hey I've been to that store in Fashion Island too. I don't have any answer on your panther upgrade. I do have an adaptec 29160 card and an ultra 160 scsi, and there has been some strange behaviour. Twice during using Diskwarrior on one of the other internal drive,s the SCSI ultra simply disappeared from the desktop and would not reappear after restarting or using apple disk utitilies. finally i had to use backup X, to retrieve some data, and then reformat the drive. (This is using 9.22). I think i read someone from this list a few years ago telling how often the use diskwarrior and other utitlies and I have gotten into that habit too. I use it daily at times if I am doing a lot of stuff. Photoshop uses up all the free disk space and also Realbasic seems to have some minor issues.

Has anyone successfully hooked up an Apple digital monitor and an analog one on a Mac? I currently have the stock ATI rage128, but was thinking of upgrading to an ATI 8500 - but as far as I can tell, its basically impossible to hook an apple digital monitor and a vga on either board - because the Apple DVI converter has a plug which is a little too wide, and there is no way to get the jack on the vga outlet without hacking off one of the screws.

On Jan 29, 2004, at 1:18 AM, TazmnianDv@... wrote: > Has anyone successfully hooked up an Apple digital monitor and an > analog one > on a Mac? Apple Studio 15'' + Apple 750 via DVI>VGA adapter working absolutely fine here on my dual 867 MDD w/NVDA GeForce 4 MX. The connectors sit pretty tight together on the rear panel, and you can't unplug the digital one without unplugging the adapter first, but no hack was needed. Don't know if this is of any help for you though as I've never worked with ATI cards and don't know how (if) they work in such a setup. Best, Andy

Thanks. I have an apple digital flatscreen and an older viewsonic flatscreen vga. Is the w/NVDA GeForce 4 MX a good card?

On Jan 29, 2004, at 4:13 AM, TazmnianDv@... wrote: > Thanks. I have an apple digital flatscreen and an older viewsonic > flatscreen > vga. > > Is the w/NVDA GeForce 4 MX a good card? Good for my needs. A little bit slow when both monitors are used (noticeable only with Logic X). Logic 9/X, Pro Tools, etc.etc. No extensive video, games or whatsoever, so I don't push it to extremes. Best, Andy

>Strangely enough, I finally got this working as advertised the other day. A client needed to >transfer some PC files, so I stuck his drive in my PC, tried to connect - no luck. I went to >the Mac, tried "connect to server" - which had failed repeatedly previously - and, wonder of >wonders, it worked perfectly the 1st time. The shared folder appeared on my desktop and that >was it. The only difference I could detect, was that this time, I had switched the PC on >first. I usually do it the other way around. Also, the stuff was coming off the 2nd drive. >I'll try it again when I get a chance. I've given up for the moment :-( It'd be good to know how you get on. Adam

This caused me a bit of grief for a while, but it works flawlessly now on Panther. Basically, in the finder go to the "Go" menu and select "Connect to Server". Find your server and connect to it. Once you've connected to it, it will show up in the left sidebar of any finder window. Click on the sidebar to open the window into your XP server. If you are not able to see the XP server when you go to connect to it..then try enterting "samba://<machinename>"; where machinename is the name of your XP machine. If that doesn't work try "samba://<ipaddr>; If that doesn't work then you may need to configure OSX with this one tool that I can't remember right now. But I'm pretty sure Panther works out of the box. Once you do all that, its pretty easy to drag the icon from the left sidebar in the finder window (after connecting) to your dock and then in the future you can simply click on the dock icon and it will both connect and open the window in one shot. -steve

Does anyone have any information on getting Logic to recognise the SI-24 Roland USB interface? It is listed as a surfce that is supported by Logic Platinum Pro but i can find no other info on this. would appreciate any help or info that I can get.!!

Thanks, Adam -----Original Message----- From: Steve Schow [mailto:steve@...] Sent: 29 January 2004 23:27 To: logic-ot@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [L-OT] re: [OT] Networking OSX to WinXP This caused me a bit of grief for a while, but it works flawlessly now on Panther.

I was wondering if anyone knew of a Bluetooth mouse that works with the G5 Apple boxes. I have a Bluetooth Mac keyboard and it works great, but I have to plug my USB mouse in somewhere so I am not currently using it. I don't want to get the Apple Bluetooth mouse b/c it only has one button, and I do like two buttons. I would love to get rid of the wires. Thanks in advance, Paul